In a world full of Big Coffeeshops, be like Toña Bakery and Café: a cozy sanctuary where community and fresh-baked warmth beats out corporate uniformity.
Sweeping plants, immaculate wood paneling, and a friendly display of Danishes. The new urban cafe on 4321 Dunbar St is the hottest new underground spot, and these two Echo staff writers took it upon themselves to “review” the food and what keeps customers coming back.
When we sat down with staff member Cote, we learned that Tona’s inviting charm is no accident. Built and renovated by pastry chef Daniel and his family as an extension of their own home, the cafe purposefully traded Vancouver’s trend of sterile, all-white minimalist interiors for warm wood and vibrant organ ceilings to combat the city’s gloomy weather. Even the lush floral arrangements that frame the entrance are hand-tended by Daniel’s mom. Though they initially expected a quiet neighborhood crowd, word spread quickly, turning the space into a magnet for local families and weekend foodies seeking an authentic neighborhood retreat.
The aesthetic is only half the story; Tona’s obsession with their craft also goes deep. Everything served is made in-house, with fruit danishes changing according to what local Fraser Valley farmers harvest each season (peaches and plums in the summer, apples and cinnamon come fall). Even the coffee follows a strict procedure, where milk is steamed to a precise temperature to both preserve the espresso’s flavour and let you sip immediately without scalding your mouth. This uncompromising dedication to quality is what sets them apart.
And that’s almost exactly what the customers we pestered (interviewed) had to say as well. “[We] saw how aesthetic [this place] looked and figured that we had to come in,” said out-of-town foodie Nick Weaver when questioned about the overall Tona environment. “It’s the colour… all the flowers in front really stand out.” Our well-travelled and experienced Echo editor, Ms. Sandra Gin, also complimented the café’s quality compared to Big Coffeeshop. “They bring more of a vibrant aesthetic and bring more of a community meal,” she said. “I think there’s just something to be said about a coffee shop that makes their own pastries every morning.”
Indeed, the food did not disappoint. I got the Prosciutto and Gueyre cheese savoury croissant, and just seeing the plating already had me salivating over the thought of sinking my teeth into my admittedly-late breakfast. The first bite was a perfect, warm crunch of mayo, prosciutto, and croissant blending together to create an exquisite savoury feel. As I devoured my food, I couldn’t help but notice the ambient groove music and the themed napkins/tableware complementing the already very aesthetic experience. No crumbs were left on that plate, although I do wish that there was a little more mayo spread on the edges. I’d give this a 8.5/10 on my totally subjective taste buds scale.
But beyond the flawless plating and sunny ceilings, what truly defines Tona is a human connection that no corporate chain could ever fake. Occupying a space in Dunbar where Starbucks once stood, Tona represents a grassroots shift towards real community. As Cote explained, balancing weekend lines of Instagram foodies with neighborhood regulars who still expect 20-ounce extra-hot lattes takes patience, but the focus remains on building relationships. The goal isn’t just to sell pastries; it’s to ensure every single person leaves warmer and better than when they walked through the door.
She’s right. In a world which sees rapidly decreasing physical places to gather, and mass closures of tariff-stricken transnational coffeeshops, the goals of the Toña cafe (and its independent compatriots) are as pressing as ever. But we don’t think that this audience really needs much more convincing. Picture the almost picturesque sunbeams on the chic pottery in the window. The delicately arranged display of books and implements. The alluring smell of coffee and pastries.
If you haven’t yet, you have to try Toña Bakery and Café. You’ll find yourself wanting to come back for more.
