Culinary Art and Flavourful Precision at Glowbal Restaurant

Tony Li, Staff Writer|February 8, 2018

The Glowbal Ambiance

Vancouver’s new Glowbal restaurant declares itself to be “big, bold, and unapologetically chaotic.” Since its opening at the end of August in Telus Garden, the latest addition to the Glowbal Restaurant Group has established itself as one of the premier destinations for fine dining in Vancouver. Glowbal was founded by Emad Yacoub in 2002. Yacoub, after running successful restaurants in Toronto, decided to take his talents back to Vancouver where he hoped to create a gathering place for friends and family. He envisioned a restaurant serving North American cuisine crafted from local, fresh ingredients; more than a decade later, Yacoub’s Glowbal restaurant is now “one of the biggest success stories in the Vancouver restaurant world.”

Having never dined at Glowbal but having heard from many people who were ecstatic about their experience dining there, I had high expectations. The location of the restaurant seemed strange, as it was located adjacent to a busy intersection, where noise from traffic could be an issue. Nevertheless, the restaurant’s aesthetically pleasing design makes up for its poor location and any possible noise pollution. Majestic wood and glass awnings, along with Italian glass, decorated the exterior. The calm ambience inside was warmed by a fireplace that connected to the all-weather patio.

We were greeted immediately. I walked from the dimly illuminated entrance to a room that was lit naturally, where I took my seat. The servers quickly introduced themselves and took our orders. Despite the servers getting a bit confused about whose dish was whose when the dishes were served, I was very impressed by the turnaround time of our orders considering our abnormally large table size and some very demanding students. The $40 meal was excellent value considering that most 3-course, fine-dining menus in Vancouver can cost $60 or more.

First came my appetizer, the Ahi Tuna Tataki. I was initially skeptical about this dish because I have never enjoyed raw seafood, but this stunner blew me away. The plating of the dish was unique and it was clear that the chef was paying attention to how food placement can be artistic: given that the tuna was placed on the left of the plate, resting on shaved papaya slaw, I wondered if the chef considered the photographer’s rule of thirds. The crunchy texture and the slight sense of spice from the lemon wasabi vinaigrette expertly balanced the soft and neutrally flavoured tuna. Julienned carrots and pieces of orange added interest and brightness to the already lively dish.

Still dwelling on the delight of the Ahi Tuna Tataki, my main course, the slow baked sablefish, shook me out of my state of dazzlement. The plating put focus on the fish, which rested on a large piece of broccolini. Though the course was a bit cold for my preference, its temperature was understandable because the kitchen had to get a large number of dishes out at the same time. The fish was seasoned just right – while the skin yielded a slightly salty flavour, a sweet taste inside provided

a refreshing contrast, similar to the effect of the vinaigrette on the Ahi Tuna. Roasted baby potatoes and strips of seaweed complimented the sablefish. After attacking the food, I found the celery and the brocollini to be an unusual vegetable combination due to their strong, yet clashing flavours. The sablefish, too, lacked the type of distinct flavour that brings foodies in from afar. Although I was a bit hesitant to finish my celery and brocollini, and the sablefish did not have the wow-factor, I did note that my peers did not leave any food scraps behind.

The unquestionable highlight of the meal came last with the s’mores cheesecake. In fact, I do not recall much of my experience with the cheesecake as this masterpiece basically made me lose consciousness. The dessert featured a thin chocolate roof, and the encircling marshmallows further emphasized the structure of the cheesecake while making a contribution to the plate’s visuals. The treat quickly turned into a delightful aftertaste that left me inspired to quest for more.

My dine-out experience was exceptional at Glowbal and met my expectations thoroughly. The gorgeous restaurant located at Telus Garden in Downtown Vancouver is undoubtedly one of the best fine-dining restaurants in Vancouver and also offers a great value for quality meals. Though some courses could be adjusted and improved, I will now join the group of ecstatic individuals who recommend Glowbal to others looking for an all-round excellent dining experience.

Glowbal Restaurant: big, bold, and unapologetically chaotic.

590 West Georgia St.

604-602-0835.

glowbalgroup.com.

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

4/5

$40 (Dine-out Vancouver)